is another form of grafting. Instead of using a stick of wood, only
one bud is used. It can only be used on branches that are about
the same size as the bud wood and there is no need to cut the branch
off until later. Chip budding is a spring technique like the grafting
method described. It can be started a week or so earlier, and bleeding
is less of a problem. Bud wood should be cut and saved in the same
way as the graft wood.
- Make a deep
diagonal downward cut about 1 cm below the selected bud.
about 2 cm above the bud, cut into the sapwood and draw the knife
downward under the bud until it meets the first cut. Remove the
chip of wood containing the selected bud.
- Make similar
cuts into the stock branch in a spot that is easy to work. Try
to match the cut surfaces for width and length.
- Place the
bud chip in the stock. Try to match the line between the bark
and the sapwood on both parts, the chip and the stock. This thin
line is the cambium layer and it must form the union. If you can't
match both sides be sure to match one side.
- Wrap the
bud in place with plastic budding strips, one inch wide by 8 to
12 inches long. Be sure to leave the bud tip exposed, but wrap
tightly. Finish the wrap by tucking the plastic underitself. If
you don't have the proper budding plastic, cut strips from 6 mil
- After a week
to 10 days, start removing the new growth on the branch above
the bud. This will direct energy to the bud and force it to grow.
After another week or more, the bud should start to grow. Once
the bud has grown out 5-10 cm, you can cut back the branch above
your bud graft to within 2-3 cm of the bud. Be sure to brace this
new growth as it expands. The wind can break it off very easily
at this stage. Leave the brace on for 1-2 years. If the plastic
wrap appears to be interfering with the growth in diameter, you
may take it off, otherwise it will eventually break and then can